Reminiscent of Vetements’ hyper-consumerist catalogue, Erik Raynal’s rebellious editorial sheds light on the darker sides of the industry. As the frenzy surrounding climate crisis spirals, art that critiques fast-fashion culture is growing. Shot in the Invaliden Park, Berlin, “a generation of hope” don piles of coats, a balaclava and a defiant stare into a grey world. Undoubtedly his most political series yet, we can’t wait to see more from this creative director.

“How Much More Would You Need?” laments hyper-consumerist culture - what started you thinking this?
The main idea of the shoot was to underline the over-consumption as well as over-production of clothing from a fashion point of view, so here with the title we also generalize a very current topic about the overuse of things and excess of waste. Perhaps the result of the very strong capitalistic consumerism we’re facing today.

Ottolinger (Berlin) pieces feature in the shoot, tell us more about your choice.
I didn’t want to associate any particular brand to the series, however it made sense while shooting in Berlin to ask both Christa and Cosima (designers of Ottolinger) to lend some of their archive pieces, the more destroyed and used looking ones specifically. These clothes represent more the result of over-use of clothing and literally translate this visually into garments – like the burned pieces for instance.

Styling with a balaclava makes an instant reference to riot-kids. Where else do you find inspiration?
Yes exactly, I didn’t want to work on only one approach to the subject by using only a lot of garments styled together. The more riot feeling has also a very activist approach to the subject, which I find very interesting to show in a very political subject and times!

Do you take styling notes from Demna Gvasalia’s subversive choices for Vetements and Baleciaga?
Not necessarily, but I’m obviously aware and really support his approach.

As Eastern-block, post-Soviet aesthetics continue to be references for designers, does this have a political value?
I believe this has been turned into a bigger trend that has lost a bit of its political sense. However, here I do believe the shoot evokes this matter from a subtle and visual point of view.

Your colour palate matches tones of dirty concrete and evokes an industrial mood, was that your intention?
Yes! We have been running around in Berlin and undecided, as per, on the final location, with Philippe (photographer). We thought it was very important to represent the very industrial concrete mood Berlin has, contrasting with a pretty young beautiful casting and touches of colour, it is at the end still a fashion process.

Your choice to shoot in front of the submerged Berlin Wall sculpture at Invaliden Park remembers the city’s Communist past. Why did you select this location?
I believe the location shows well both an historical moment, with the Berlin wall, as well as a strong aesthetic choice with the concrete architecture. It was both a decision of how the shoot would look as well as wanting to show a symbolic place that hasn’t been shot so much yet!

Would you say anti-capitalist politics are a fashionable?
Yes for sure and especially all the current human topics such as sustainability, women’s rights and homosexuality for instance!

Your “cover” image tells of sexuality, excess and anonymity- are your referencing modern hook-up culture?
Not necessarily!

You describe your cast of models as “a generation of hope”, what’s your ideal vision of the future?
I do believe the current and certainly next generations are the ones to be more and more aware of what needs to change for our future! Having a pretty young cast was also important for me to represent the generations that will in the end matter most for making these changes!

What’s next for you as a stylist and creative director?
I am taking a step back regarding the ‘normal way’ stylists work in fashion at the moment. I’m hoping my next projects will always have a sense that matters today! However, I have some very exciting projects and collaborations coming up that are both related to the Fashion and Arts fields. I’m also involved in Ansinth publication which I’m working closely with brands I believe in and who are aware of their times!