To the historic, creative and nerve center of Lisbon, which is also the place where every day we think about what Portuguese fashion is, and what it can be. MODALISBOA À LA CARTE is an edition that, like appetite, is fed by the act of sharing and communion. The menu is seasonal, and the best seasonal products arrive at fashion shows, exhibitions, presentations and performances in a tasting where the mise en place is from ModaLisboa, but creativity is served by the Designers. Always hungry for more, are the designers who lead the feast of carnal and transcendent indulgences. What awaits you is sweet, salty, acidic and spicy, both warming and refreshing, filling and mouth-watering.

FAST TALKS and the inauguration of the WORKSTATION NEW MEDIA exhibition brought to the table the complex but urgent flavors of the role of design in the climate crisis, technological innovation as a driver of change and brand building in a volatile present.

MODALISBOA À LA CARTE is a moment that resides between the tense anticipation and the relief of liberation, of unrestricted surrender. Like a desire that consumes, it is gluttony and lust, an urge to devour the world before it devours us. Perhaps only through surrender can clarity emerge. If it doesn't arrive, we'll at least have the pleasure of a sugar rush.

SANGUE NOVO

By the basic rules of a menu, we should refer to Sangue Novo supported by Seaside, the first show of the 61st Lisboa Fashion Week, as an Entrée. But there are two reasons why we won't: the first is that each of the ten young selected Designers is much more than a simple introduction. The second is that we've never really liked following rules. Analysing these ten collections is also about listening to the vision of the new generation of Fashion Design for the present and future of the area — and, consequently, the identity and social issues that are currently driving creation.

The projects, materialised with the support of ModaLisboa's textile partnerships (Calvelex/Fabrics4Fashion, RDD Textiles and Riopele), have a transversal concern with the use of manufacturing processes with less environmental impact. In addition to the usual deadstock and upcycling, the young designers use prints made from natural processes, mono-materials, natural fibres, recyclable materials and 3D prints. As for the concept, the interpretation of reality unfolds in awe of the new — be it as simple as a texture or as complex as a fictional world — metamorphosis and transformation, identity that transcends what is static, gentrification and even the beauty of routine.

On October 6, 2023, MODALISBOA À LA CARTE received the ten projects from the competition, which were once again supported by Seaside, and on the same day it announced the five finalists who, in March 2024, will compete for the IED - Istituto Europeo di Design and RDD Textiles awards. The five Designers, who will be represented in the Showpress showroom from now on, will receive a thousand euros to work on their next collection, as well as mentoring sessions with the judging panel.

DESIGNERS

AFONSO AFONSO - ANA MARICATO - BÁRBARA ATANÁSIO - ÇAL PFUNGST - DIOGO MESTRE - GABRIEL BANDEIRA - ISZA - IZABEL MONNERAT - MARIA DO CARMO STUDIO - MARIA MIGUEL MARTINS

WORKSTATION NEW MEDIA EXHIBITION

Community, biology, gender, social exclusion, post-contemporaneity, body, mental health: the physical and the metaphysical presented in an exhibition where AI, performance, 3D, sound, interactive media and emerging technologies are portals to what moves society we live in.

WORKSTATION NEW MEDIA, a new project by Associação ModaLisboa, with the support of the República Portuguesa — Cultura / Direção Geral das Artes, presented its first exhibition. Carpintarias de São Lázaro had free entry for everyone who wanted to immerse themselves in this experience that both harmonizes and confronts the disciplines of Fashion, Fine Arts and Technology.

The exhibition included the work of three invited artists — paatiff, Rudolfo Quintas and the collective ZABRA — and the five names selected from the open call launched in July. Extramundus :: João e Sara, Marco Maiato, Mindeformer & Zalda, Ricardo Santos aka Postmodern Bot and S4RA presented the best projects in the competition.

CONSTANCA ENTRUDO

Constança Entrudo is a Lisbon brand led by creative director and designer Constança Entrudo, whose main concern is to remain true to her art, combining textile research, experimentation and a sense of humour. A graduate of Central Saint Martins (London), Constança gained industry experience at Balmain, Peter Pilotto and Marques’Almeida. Based and manufactured in Portugal, the brand’s central signature transcends trends. Constança Entrudo offers unique handcrafted clothes and fabrics imbued with a fearlessly fluid attitude, reinventing classics and unexpected details, while embodying youth with modernity. Generating sustainable fabrics that defy the usual textile manufacturing processes, Constança Entrudo creates with absolute freedom from pre-existing design structures, using trial and error methods to arrive at the brand’s exclusive fabric technologies.

In a world where global warming has erased the existence of winter, Constança Entrudo’s Spring/Summer 24 Collection invites you to step into an apocalyptic scenario where winter is but a distant memory, and embrace the chaos of an office heatwave. The garments in Constança’s Spring/Summer 24 Collection are designed to reflect this dramatic shift: imagine an office where traditional suits and poplin striped shirts are subjected to tearing and cutting, and their fragments woven into deconstructed ripped jersey tank tops. Rooted in the meticulous collection and reappropriation of discarded objects, Constança’s collection traces the unseen contours of the everyday. These are the objects that linger at the back of your desk drawer, the rarely used fold of your wallet or the centre console of your car. Motivated first and foremost by the physical quality of objects, choosing to combine them chiefly by happenstance, Constança links her practice back to Dada, to meaning in nonsense.

The prints featured in this collection are derived from still life photographs of everyday objects, including the playful juxtaposition of Christmas bows with seashells and other beach motifs, as well as intricate sculptures portraying office ballpoint pens entwined with threads. These sculptures and photographs of discarded objects suggest the unseen exchanges of everyday life.

Using disposable ballpoint pens, Constança creates ink fields on surfaces of canvas and paper. For this collection, she presents a selection of blue ink drawings, printed onto a range of materials, including denim, crepe, and the brand’s signature woven fabrics. The ballpoint drawings represent the various states of boredom, frustration, and exhaustion present in office life, highlighting the dehumanizing effects of corporate culture.

This collection offers a critical look at office life and its power dynamics while also providing an ironic commentary on consumer culture and wastefulness.

FILIPE CEREJO

Filipe Cerejo began his Fashion journey in Porto, but moved to London, where he gained a BA in Fashion Design at Middlesex University, in 2021. His graduate collection was also showcased in the British Fashion Council and ShowStudio. Following his graduation, Filipe took on the role of Menswear Designer at ASOS in London, where he honed his craft and deepened his Fashion Industry knowledge. Since then, he has kept developing new projects and finding ways to invigorate his vision and creative process. In 2022 he won the Polimoda prize of Sangue Novo, ModaLisboa’s Young Designers Competition, earning him the chance to pursue a MA in Collection Design at Polimoda in Florence. His vision in designing garments extends beyond aesthetics; it’s about evoking emotions, bringing sophistication and seduction, embodying a narrative, embracing a feeling, and expressing a unique identity, offering a fresh perspective of menswear.

The Spring/Summer 2024 collection, SYMPOSIUM

The genesis of this creative journey can be traced back to the book "Ragazzi," a work by Helbig Konrad that portrayed youthful masculine beauty. Within this literary context, the lens of Konrad captured subjects in a state of nudity within a coastal milieu, emulating the aesthetic of classical Greek youth. These photographic compositions resonate profoundly in their capacity to convey poignant moments of emotional potency within the realm of masculine beauty. The dynamics of the human physique, characterized by graceful movement, the extension of musculature, and the tension these attributes generate, served as a guiding narrative thread.

This exploration subsequently led to the conceptualization and realization of garments that amalgamated elements of existentialist drapery with classical tailoring and knitwear. The deliberate choice of raw silk yarn, meticulously knit to forge minimalist silhouettes, endows these creations with layers of deeper significance. Additionally, the inclusion of transparency as a design element serves to unveil the more provocative facet of this collection, thus contributing to the cultivation of a conscious, introspective narrative.

IVAN HUNGA GARCIA

Ivan Hunga Garcia is establishing xem name into a couture investigation atelier within fashion as an expression medium. In fashion design and textiles, the “Botanical Apparel” project debuted in Lisboa Fashion Week (Sangue Novo contest) in March 2022.

Between pattern cutting and physical incubation of materials, the concept of “Land Art” demonstrates a crucial component to understand the scale and thought involved in an ephemeral perspective of costume design and creative direction.

VIVID TOUCH, WARM YET DISTANT

Vivid touch, warm yet distant
For how long do you remember the smell of someone,
When did you notice you had forgotten?
And how fast it all flashes in a sensorial trigger, abstracted yet confining.

After all it was only a memory,
both recollecting the past and projecting to a newer reach.
A future memory and a past premonition.

That limbo
A timeframe that can be considered a double nostalgia.
Nostalgia is always prone to decision making
even if the outcome is stepping out from it.
It reminds you of what you want, what is next and what you once had.
That is how we've realized it's a memory
Even when generationally speaking, we consciously lose sight of it.

Within an assembly of seven Neohominidae citizens, the new generation promotes an ancestral reference of social and knowledge development under the collective's legacy. The narrative extends by acknowledging and restructuring according to the recollection of historic heirlooms.

KOLOVRAT

With a background in cinema and fashion, Lidija Kolovrat defines her language through deconstruction, urban culture and arts. Her passion is to create meaningful garments to all of those who seek a differentiated style, in tune with their true, inner self.

In 1990, she founded KOLOVRAT, a brand that cares about the impact of its creations, both for the environment — by valuing sustainability and recycling — and for customers. Kolovrat believes that clothing reflects our inner world, our sacred geometry and our symbolic language. “Intuition, spirituality and innovation are the way to achieve the uniqueness of the piece that will be co-created for each one, so that everyone can empower themselves with their true selves and engage in beauty, daring and a sense of humor needed to embrace the unexpected.”

For Kolovrat, being part of the community means reinventing itself and achieving excellence in creations that combine the vibrancy of a dynamic society with the commitment of an ethical business.

For the Spring/Summer 2024, Kolovrat dreamed of a world full of possibilities. When she arrived in Cuba, she discovered that the world can be full of limitations. As she immersed herself in the colours of its old Chevrolet cars, colonial palaces, the typical bodeguitas, she was struck by the lack of practically everything — the sparse tobacco plantations, bankrupt companies, empty roads. A country as rich as it is poor. Absorbed by this experience, inspiration began to come naturally to her. The images from her trip formed a collection, almost effortlessly. A collection that expresses nothing less than her desires for the future.

All this materialises in super-volumes, contrasts between loose and tight, oversized and multifunctional pockets, mixtures of materials and original prints. There's blue, yellow, white and black in light fabrics, silks, crepes, cottons and heavy twills.

OLGA NORONHA

Olga Noronha (Porto, 1990) holds a degree in Jewellery Design from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design (UAL) and a Masters in Design Research from Goldsmiths College, University of London. In 2017 got her PhD at the same university, with a merit scholarship for a PhD – Design Star Consortium – Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC). Olga Noronha has, since 2011, been linked to several national and international academic institutions, as a researcher, guest lecturer, examiner and speaker, namely at Royal College of Arts (UK); Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design (UK); Winthrop University (USA); UCA Rochester (UK); POLIMI (IT); CITAD – FCT (PT); ESAD (PT); among others) as well as the Museo Del Gioiello Vicenza, in Italy, assuming the curatorship of part of the museum. Noronha is currently Coordinator and Principal Investigator on a research project financed by Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT) entitled “Study of filigree patterns for biomedical jewellery applications”: https://biofiligree.com

With multiple national and international exhibitions and publications in the areas of design, science and art, Olga Noronha’s work is part of several public and private collections. The work developed by Olga Noronha fluctuates between different areas, characterised by contrasts and dichotomies that aim to combine scientific pragmatism and the conceptualism of art.

The Spring/Summer 2024 collection Hypnagogia: period between wakefulness and sleep; initial stage of NREM sleep (Non-rapid eye movement) sleep. The experience in the space "Museu de Arte Contemporânea da ModaLisboa", created by Olga Noronha, will guide you to the deepest point of hypnagogic hallucination. At the moment of falling asleep, NREM sleep, the hypnagogic hallucinations take over the visual, tactile and auditory senses, revealing vivid figures of strong tones and high contrasts, chimerical and harmonious images or, for others, geometric and exact. Allow yourself to be immersed.

VALENTIM QUARESMA

Valentim Quaresma expresses creativity through fashion and art. He studied in the School of arts António Arroio and in Ar.co’s Jewellery department. He worked with Ana Salazar, the pioneer of Portuguese fashion, creating jewellery and accessories for her collections from 1990 to 2010.

In 2008, he won the prize “Accessories collection of the Year” in the international competition ITS#7 in Trieste – Italy, and started his own brand.

Since then, Valentim Quaresma has been presenting his own collections internationally in events like Bread and Butter in Barcelona; 080 Barcelona Fashion, [moment] in Riga, Fashionclash in Maastricht, The Netherlands; Cesis Fashion Art Festival in Latvia; Bijorhca in Paris; MoBa13 “Fetishism in Fashion” in Arnhem; Manupulating Surface – Portuguese Craftmanship in London, just to name a few. With his FW 11/12 collection, “Alchemy”, he integrates the ModaLisboa’s official calendar, where he started to present his work seasonally.

The Spring/Summer 2024 collection UNTITLED

Valentim Quaresma’s collection has no title, and this will allow those who

view the pieces or wear them to have a more direct and personal experience with the work without being influenced by a pre-defined title, thus allowing greater openness to interpretation. The interpretations can be multiple due to the overload of information, some of it more direct, others implied, as if they were secrets, because most of the messages in the pieces are autobiographical and linked to memories and feelings.

The predominant colours are black, forest green, brown and copper.

RICARDO ANDREZ

Ricardo Andrez, graduated from Cooperativa Arvore and the Citex (currently Modatex), in Oporto, explores images and products, with the motto: Thinking about Fashion is thinking about the body. Andrez established his own label in 2006, with men´s fashion forming the focus of his research. Since then, he has reinterpreted sportswear and streetwear, creating a colourful, healthy and structured universe. In 2008 and 2009, he presented his work at Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week, Barcelona Fashion Week and ModaFad (Barcelona), and in March 2010 he joined the official calendar of ModaLisboa, where he started to present his collections seasonally.

I DON’T EAT BREAKFAST - the Spring/Summer 2024 collection is based on aesthetic references from the early 2000s.In this fashion anthology, and using a contemporary approach, Andrez worked on maximalist and hyperbolic ideas, inspired by the diet culture and the dichotomy between sophistication and sensationalism. More is More.

ARNDES

From an early age, Ana Rita de Sousa, ARNDES’ designer, showed interest in expressing herself through textiles materials. Graduated in Fashion Design by Modatex Porto, in 2019, and with a previous specialization in Plastic Arts applied to Performance and Shows by Soares dos Reis School, she completed her training with an internship at the atelier of designer Luís Buchinho. In 2021, she won the first prize of the Sangue Novo, ModaLisboa’s Young Designers Competition, which allowed her to attend the Master’s in Collection Design at Polimoda, in Florence.

ARNDES is a brand aimed at an audience that values craftsmanship and unique silhouettes. It creates a commitment that articulates the aesthetics, functionality, quality and impact of its products throughout their life cycle, based on environmental, ecological and social sustainability. In order to reduce production waste, ARNDES reuses deadstock fabrics for the samples and production of her collections, as well as existing classic garments, transforming them into new garments. The idea is to have a laboratory environment where exploration and experimentation are valued.

The Spring/Summer 2024 collection, FREESTYLE, is not just a collection, it's an invitation to explore the creative freedom that exists in the fashion world without thinking about its limitations. ARNDES celebrates the art of craftsmanship, but more importantly, it is a tribute to the art of creative freedom. The brand believes that true style knows no limits, which is why it has created an environment where experimentation flourishes. This collection focuses on a moment of self-expression and a commitment to exploration and experimentation. In this way, creation works like a laboratory, focusing on more than just aesthetics, but also on creating timeless pieces. ARNDES is not just about producing pieces, it is an artistic commitment to timeless luxury. With a soft and elegant tone, the collection invites you to be part of a movement towards a more conscious and sustainable world.

GONCALO PEIXOTO

Gonçalo Peixoto started studying Fashion Design in 2012 in Guimarães and later graduated from ESAD, in Matosinhos.

Since the beginning of his studies, he has been revealed to be a passionate young artist driven by his love for fashion and his need to create. His collections have drawn the attention of several highly regarded fashion stores, as well as fashion magazines and other artists. In September of 2017, he presented his first runway collection during London Fashion Week. In March 2018, he joined the official calendar of ModaLisboa – Lisboa Fashion Week, where he started to present his collections seasonally.

DUARTEHAJIME

Ana Duarte (Lisbon, 1991), founder and designer of the DuarteHajime brand, studied Fashion Design at the Faculty of Architecture in Lisbon and finished her Master of Arts in Menswear Design and Technology at the London College of Fashion, with distinction, in 2015. Currently, she is a guest teacher at the Lusófona University in the Fashion Design Course.

In October 2016, she presented the “SS17 Knock Out” capsule collection at the Sangue Novo competition, at Lisboa Fashion Week, and won an Honourable Mention Award, starting to be part of the official calendar, in the LAB platform. In 2018, she presented the “SS19 Monaco GP” collection at Riga Fashion Week, and integrated the United Fashion showroom, where she participated again in 2021. Ana Duarte is the winner of the C.L.A.S.S. Icon 2021 Award: the annual competition for visionary creatives who combines design, responsible innovation and communication, capable of raising contemporary consumer awareness of the new values of sustainable fashion.

With a passion for drawing and illustration, Ana Duarte is a professional illustrator with 5 published books. All the DuarteHajime brand’s prints are exclusive, made by the designer, adapting to the concept of each collection. DuarteHajime intends to redefine the concept of streetwear, creating a Cool Lifestyle. The brand focuses on sustainability and mixing and creating different textures essentially through the use of unique prints, natural and technological fabrics, and knitwear. DUARTE pieces are perfect for someone with an active lifestyle that values garments with design and an urban appeal, while contributing for a better world.

The Spring/Summer 2024 - ARCADE: an indoor area containing coin-operated game machines. This season, DuarteHajime pays homage to the world of video games, going back to where it all started: in the arcade centers, in the early 70s. In a world constantly evolving, and with Artificial Intelligence now being part of our lives, the brand got inspired by the 8-bit games and pixel aesthetic, where humans had total control over technology. The result is genderless, oversized silhouettes in organic cotton, denim, recycled polyster, wool, Bemberg™, sports nets and ReLiveTex® technical fabrics, in shades such as blue, green, mint, black, white and lava.

photography LUIS GALA

@galagalinha

words MIRA WANDERLUST

@mirawanderlust