UMA WANG SS25
This summer, the renowned Constantin Brancusi exhibition at the Centre Pompidou left a profound mark on many, none more so than designer Uma Wang. Known for her keen eye and sculptural approach to fashion, Wang was deeply moved by Brancusi’s innovative use of materials and his ability to balance austere precision with playful fluidity.
In particular, it was Brancusi's ability to combine different materials, blending wood, marble, and stone that made the designer rethink her collection and experiment with different textiles.
Uma Wang SS25 Collection displayed a wide array of soft yet structured, wearable yet intellectual sculptures that forced the viewer to move around them to appreciate their composition fully.
Oscillating between minimalist restraint and dynamic form, Wang’s designs exhibited an inherent tension, balancing structure and softness, just as Brancusi’s sculptures did with contrasting materials.
The artful manipulation of fabrics — whether gathered into a bustle at the hip or flared across the shoulder — created movement and drama, reminiscent of Brancusi’s kinetic sculptures.
The collection’s palette ranged from earthy neutrals, like gesso and tobacco, to a sudden burst of washed-out red, adding a hint of surprise amidst the muted tones.
Like in Brancusi’s work, reduction was the method by which Uma Wang operated, stripping the garments of unnecessary embellishments and forging new shapes through this act of subtraction. And, ultimately, Wang’s process became her product. Her pursuit of resolving complexity through design was evident in every piece.
words DAVIDE ANDREATTA
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